![]() 10/15/2020 at 09:42 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Sometimes the cost difference is way too much.
Ran to Oreillys last night to get some brakes for the B eater-B alt and the drums rang up for $58 a pop. I paused at that and the guy told me that they should come down once he rang in the shoes and hardware kit. They did, to $56 each. I told him to wait a minute while I looked them up because $56 seemed really expensive. As I was googling he told me if I found them cheaper they would price match, and thirty seconds later I had them up on Rock Auto for $17, seventeen, $41 cheaper per drum. When I showed him this he said, “oooohhhh we can’t price match Rock Auto, sorry.” So I told him, “no worries, I’ll just order them, and since I’m ordering anyway go ahead and put the shoes and hardware back as well. Sorry. If I have to wait for one thing I can wait for them all.”
Granted these are the economy drums from Roc k A uto, but they’re still Raybestos drums and even the daily driver category drums were under $30. There was shipping involved as well but I still got the whole kit and caboodle for $92 compared to the $165 it would have cost me locally.
I usually try to shop locally, but not for that kind of price difference.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 09:49 |
|
The only time I get parts from the parts stores anymore is if the warranty is worth the extra cost. If I’m keeping the car a while, I might spend double for lifetime pads and rotors, Ignition coils, etc. But sometimes less than half price, you just gotta do what you gotta do.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 09:49 |
|
You pay for convenience.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 09:50 |
|
Makes you wonder what they are making them for if they are selling them for 17$
Just bought leaf springs direct from the manufacturer, listed under a different name on rockauto, for like 70$ cheaper per spring. When they arrived, they came shipped from the same company listed on the rockauto site.
You gotta love how all these manufacturers are in bed with each other. Like peeling back an onion.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 09:52 |
|
I see this is a global problem. I have the same troubles here. Especially once shopping online from China gained popularity. At my local car-parts store they wanted around 30
dollars for a bluetooth car-radio-whatever
thing I needed. On AliExpress the exact same thing was priced
in cents, not even a dollar
. Price differences like those are so compelling that you don’t really have a choice. Especially for multiple items, it adds up quick.
You don’t have to feel bad about it, it’s how the whole system is rigged, nothing you can do. Capitalism is a
huge unstoppable
machine, much bigger than what you or I or that local store
can take on...
![]() 10/15/2020 at 09:52 |
|
O’reilly’s isn’t “local” anyways. And their reward program sucks, so fuck em.
I’ve been getting stuff at advance lately. Tends to be cheaper and I had acc rued like eighteen $5 coupons. Down to one left...
![]() 10/15/2020 at 09:53 |
|
I feel you man. You really have to pick your battles on the internet vs buy local thing. Some things you really need to see & touch before you buy them and when that’s the case, I don’t mind paying a premium to buy at a local spot. But a lot of the time it doesn’t matter and if you have the time to wait for shipping, internet buying wins.
My concern is that what happens when a local store can NEVER compete on price and all we’re left with is the internet and big box stores where they don’t have to compete for your business? Retail is a dying business because of real estate prices and real estate prices are fucked because of real estate investment trusts skewing the market. REITs are satan incarnate; every bad thing in the real estate sector can be traced back to them IMHO. Fucking rich assholes using their massive piles of cash to make moves that are impossible for us plebes.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 09:55 |
|
I was quoted $130 for a plastic underbody tray (fuel line cover) for my Volvo at the dealership. Online the cost was $74. It took 36 hours and an extra $9 to get it delivered to my door. Shopping local is great, but not at those kinds of price deltas.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 09:59 |
|
Advance is my local store, they've always done good by me
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:01 |
|
+1 Also, Advanced auto (at least my local one) has the best fluid/battery drop off program. If you don’t want the container back you don’t even have to go inside!
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:04 |
|
Pricing and availability will stop me dead in my tracks. As you said, if you have to wait for one thing you have to wait for it all... I love FCP euro for their lifetime parts guarantee (even on breaks lol) but they almost never have everything I need for a job. So I’m stuck with the dealer(s) or ECS and all of the companies they now own.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:06 |
|
I mean internet stores compete with each other too. Even Amazon’s staggering market share still leaves lots of room for competition (even within Amazon, as a significant portion of their sales are third-party sellers).
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:06 |
|
I could never bring myself to buy the cheapo drums/rotors from Rock Auto. I always felt they’re one hard stop away from warping. I usually go with Napa gold/premium which tun about $60 per. Brakes are an area where I don’t screw around with the cheapest parts.
However, I d on’t really consider chain stores local. I guess that depends where you live, though.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:07 |
|
Yep, I had made a similar post a while back... I want to support local, but I just can't afford to when the price can be as much as half as cheap online in some cases...
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:09 |
|
I don’t even worry about warranty anymore.
The warranty doesn’t mean much when you have to do the same job numerous times because the “lifetime” parts are junk.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:09 |
|
I live out of town and Oreilly’s is the closest place by far, the next nearest place adds like 20 minutes to a parts run and they usually don’t have what I need anyway. Oreilly rewards program does suck though, I’ve had it for a couple years now? and I don’t recall ever getting anything from it.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:12 |
|
I feel you. I’m looking at ski boots, and one model I can get for $280 online vs. $479 in store ($400 MSRP). Obviously in store I get boot fitting services and a fit guarantee, which is not free for the shop to offer , and definitely worth something, but still feels pretty steep. I may end up buying a pair they have priced at $700 ($650 MSRP) in part because it feels like I’m not getting quite as screwed on price.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:15 |
|
I ordered the $.97 pads and $8.11 rotors for the car when I did the brakes last time.
The pads ended up being Raybestos Prostop Elite pads, combined with the API rotors, I have no complaints.
I’ve found it doesn’t really matter, I’ve spent crazy money on the best rotor/pads (Brembos) to have them warp in 2 days.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:15 |
|
I worry about the loss of local shops as well and try to support local businesses when I can, but someone as big as O’reillys should always be able to compete on price. Even if they were a little more expensive the convenience is worth something. When you’re damn near triple the price though? Unless I’m desperate , I can wait.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:19 |
|
Advance has the best rewards program. Honestly, better than Rock Auto 5% discounts.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:20 |
|
I hope you got coated drums
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:22 |
|
Now you got me thinking... I need to do rear brakes on my Subaru, maybe it won’t be Napa This time.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:24 |
|
I’d imagine a cast drum like this, with just a small amount of machining, at the quantities they’re being built in, cost the manufacture some where around $3-$ 5.
I’ve actually got a little insight into this as I’m an engineer in the aftermarket truck accessories world, apart from a few actually made in USA companies the vast majority of tubular grille guards, nerf bars, running boards, bull bars etc. come from one or two companies in China, just rebranded for whoever is selling them.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:28 |
|
Things I wear I’m much more likely to buy locally, like motorcycle jackets and helmets, although selection is usually fairly limited or I have to go to four or five places to try everything I like. For price differences that big I’d be tempted to try things on locally, then order what I want.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:29 |
|
I did not. Old ones weren’t, so I see no need to have them this time either.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:32 |
|
True, and if I was in desperate need to get the car on the road the next day I might have just accepted it, but for $73 I can drive the truck for a few days. Or ride the bike s like I did today even though it was only 28° this morning. I’m happy to pay for a little convenience , but not triple the price.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:41 |
|
Well, I know enough about brakes to know Brembos are built to be light, not durable, and wouldn’t expect them to hold up all that well on a commuter car. I definitely wouldn’t put them on a truck.
That brings up a good point about application. Puttin’ through a flat, midwest town, probably not going to notice a difference (unless you throw Brembos on your daily). Bombing through the mountain west (on and offroad), and the cheapos are gonna warp.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:44 |
|
I have one and only goal with this car, to spend as little on it as possible. I’m not going to compromise the safety of it though. I’ve never had a problem with Raybestos in the past , and these were Rock Auto’s most popular brake drums, I’d expect that if there were big problems with them they’d be known . Plus, it’s a big hunk of cast iron, there’s not a lot to go wrong. I ponied up the extra $5 for the name brand shoes though, even though I doubt there’s a difference.
The truck gets the good upgraded pads/rotors however since I tow with it regularly. I’ve ran cheapos before on my older truck and they never gave me big problems, but that was back when I was barely out of school and tight on money. Now that I can afford it I’m not taking any chances.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:47 |
|
Brakes and wipers are a rockauto purchase all day. But the wipers I normally buy 4-5 sets to economize shipping. Just need to plan ahead.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:47 |
|
I have only one goal with this car, to spend as little as possible. It’s a $1500 beater car that I hate. I hang on to it because it gets good gas mileage, keeps my truck out of the salt, and allows me to save money for a house, a nice car for my wife, and toys. Once a couple of those things are acquired this car is first on the list of things to go.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:50 |
|
I have $30 centric blanks on my Vette with EBC blues and it gets autocrossed, so a lotta hard stops and temps...no warping yet after a couple of events
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:51 |
|
Coated drums are awesome because they help stop the rust, or at least slow it down. Uncoated drums rust overnight and can be impossible to remove next time because they freeze to the
wheels and hub
:(
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:52 |
|
If this was pre- planned I would have just ordered %100, this was more of a surprise brake job and I can’t drive the car until it’s done. Luckily I’ve got the truck and the motorcycles until the parts arrive, if I didn’t I probably would have ponied up.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:52 |
|
FCP also does lifetime on engine oil if you didn't know. Its basically free engine oil...
![]() 10/15/2020 at 10:56 |
|
True true, but this is a cheap beater car with rusted rocker panels already. If it was a nicer car I probably would have opted for the coated ones. Plus, I’ve had uncoated drums on a couple vehicles and haven’t had much of a problem removing them. Usually a few good whacks from a BFH frees them up.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 11:38 |
|
It was my understanding that with Corvettes, the rest of the car overheats before the rotors get too hot to warp. Boiling brake fluid goes a long way to preventing rotor warp ;)
![]() 10/15/2020 at 12:02 |
|
These were the “daily duty” Brembo blank rotors, not any of their performance stuff.
I ordered them with hopes of solving a car’s monthly warped rotor routine after trying numerous other “quality” brands.
The final result was some cheapo Ebay drilled/slotted rotors with Hawk pads. That result was on the car for the remaining 60k miles we owned it.
I used to be firmly in the “you get what you pay for” category, but after you replace the same expensive parts numerous times when they fail, you kinda change your mind.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 12:04 |
|
Lol
Its never boiled the liquid yet...
![]() 10/15/2020 at 12:07 |
|
that reminds me I have to order discs for the Quest. They were about $90 for the pair locally or $50 on R ock Auto.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 12:50 |
|
This weekend I found my lower ball joint was shot, but you have to buy the whole control arm. Last I looked, they were about $80 at the local Autozone, knowing Rockaut was about $40. I almost just ran out to get it but checked pricing before I left. I was wrong, it was $127. Nope, ebay it is, $38 and 2 days later, it’s sitting in the garage waiting for me to get around to changing it. Maybe tonight.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 13:51 |
|
Yeah, every car is different, and some do require a unique solution. If it works, it works. Problem with the cheapos is consistency . What works once, might not work again.
![]() 10/15/2020 at 18:06 |
|
And now you got me thinking about needing to order some more oil filters and a swaybar link for my Fit off of Rock Auto.
![]() 10/16/2020 at 09:00 |
|
Seems like this was a reminder for several people. Get it done before wintertime! (if you have that where you live)
![]() 10/16/2020 at 11:15 |
|
I’m in Canada... Yup... we get winter...